A
Amoskeag Manufacturing company - The first major source of denim in the U.S. claiming in 1900 to be the world's largest textile producer.
Anti-Twist - The natural tendancy of denim to turn diagonally in relation to the orientation of the weave is corrected.
Aquawash - Appearance of very washed out indigo, but actually a very slightly coloured denim. The number of washes is reduced in order to obtain a washed out effect.
Authentic - The only genuine jeans: American denim or classic jeans. Traditional indigo denim (ring spun yarn, skein dyed, dark indigo); "Five Pocket" style.
B
Back cinch - Also known as a "martingale" was a method of tightening the waist of jeans before the widespread use of belts; hence the term "buckle back".
Ball warping - The warp yarn is specially prepared for skein dyeing.
Basics - Simple and traditional models of jeans. Best-sellers commercially: the "Five Pocket" jeans, the "Western Style" jacket, the "Western
Shirt" and the "Bib'n'Brace" (dungarees).
Bell bottom - A specific style of jeans, born in the 60s, which became popular in the 70s. Narrow waited (and sometimes low), also tight
fitting around the thighs, they get wider from the knees (lower leg flared).
Bib'n'Brace - Also know as "dungaree" or "salopette". Typical American "workwear" style with many variations.
Black denim - Original quality denim the warp of which is black instead of blue. Fades naturally to give a grey or "salt and pepper" shade.
Black change blue - Indigo warp dyed black (the weft thread remains white naturally). Fades during washing and becomes dark blue (indigo).
Bleach - A bleaching process with sodium hypochlorite or with potassium permanganate. The latter may add a yellow tone, little appreciated by the purists.
Blue - Not all blue is a traditional indigo. Here are some variations:
"DIRTY BLUE" - after washing, the colour includes a hint of beige a chemical reaction controlled or obtained by using cotton for the weft yarn; also called "BACKWATER BLUE".
"ORGANIC BLUE" introduces a reddish hint. Originally, the dye was enriched with glucose syrup. Also called "HAPPY DAY", "VIOLET BLUE", "HEAVY BLUE".
Boot cut - Jeans with straight legs and the bottom of the legs flared making it easier to wear western boots.
Broken twill
1 - Rediscovered method of weaving denim (plain till weave), visually resembling satin weave.
2 - A denim weave which changes twill directions in order to eradicate "leg twist". Characterised by the zig & zag weave pattern most noticeable from the inside of the fabric.
Brushed - Brushed denim, the surface of which has been scraped to make it soft and silky to the touch.
Brushing - Tonnello, a large Italian corporation specialising in industrial washing plant, realised the limitations of sandblasting, in that it is difficult to control, and also tends to flatten the natural characteristics of the fabric. They developed, and continue to advance, large rotary brushing machines that either manually, or automatically, are used to degrade the face of the fabric. The advantage of the brushing process is that it is easier to control through use of speed and pressure, and more intricate, authentic effects can be achieved.
Buttons - Buttons; the traditional jean button consists of two elements: a short stud through the fabric and a visible button, countersunk onto the stud.
Button fly - Button fly, the original jeans fly.
C
Cast - The overall "tinge" of denim after wash. There are many red, green, yellow, grey to name but a few, and the choice is left to the end customer to decide, and fabrics are then dyed accordingly.
Chambray - Cotton fabric, a light indigo material, used mostly for simple shirts. Also popular for girls fashion jeans.
Chlorine - See "BLEACH"
Cigarette - Tight fitting jeans with straight legs that cling to the figure.
Colored denim - Originally, jeans were always "blue". Nowadays, black and ecru are basic colours. Depending on the trends of the moment, pastel colours and vivid colours are also used. Colours producing special effects by overdyeing in two tones and fading pigments that can be obtained during the dyeing of the yarn or the garment.
Comfort fit - See "EASY FIT"
Cone Mills - Started denim production in 1895. They began supplying in 1910. The company has recently been bought by rival denim mill BURLINGTON DENIM.
Cooper, Harold - Invented the name Lee Cooper in 1951
Cooper, Morris - Founded the Cooper's Overalls business in 1908.
Core dyeing - Typical for good quality denim. The colour penetrates the interior of the yarn.
